This is a draft chapter from my Guide to Lempad’s art and buildings in Bali.

Directions:

Stay on the north side of Jl Raya Ubud and continue to walk west until you get to a hotel called Saraswati Bungalows. Go to reception and ask for permission to visit the temple.

Built in 1952, this was Lempad’s second major Ubud project. The beautifully-maintained complex shows how much his style had developed almost four decades after he built the Peliatan royal palace. It is also unusual for Lempad in that it appears to contain no unfinished sculptures.

The temple took the form of the cosmic mountain being churned in the middle of the celestial sea (the milky way). Much of the present paved areas were originally lily ponds Lempad filled in after Mount Agung erupted in 1963. The earthquake also damaged the original central tower which he had to replace.

The temple is dedicated to Saraswati who is the goddess of books and learning. Students pray to her before their exams and once a year all books are blessed on the day of her festival.

Lempad’s subtle sense of humour sometimes shows in his work.

Cultural tips:

This is not a museum but a place of worship. Please dress appropriately and respect other Balinese temple customs. You may like to leave a donation for the temple’s upkeep in the donation box.

The hotel belongs to a branch of the Royal Family that commissioned the temple.